Walks in Pilion (book and map)

This book describes eighteen walks in the verdant Agios Ioannis, Mouresi, Damouchari (where Mamma Mia! was filmed) and Tsangarada area of the eastern Pilion of mainland Greece. The area is noted for its cool, damp winters, and consequently for its lush summer woodlands, that are criss-crossed by a fine network of well-preserved donkey-paths (kalderimia).

The Pilion is situated on the eastern coast of mainland Greece, in the province of Magnisia in the region of Thessalia. To the north lie the mountains Ossa and Olymbos, the latter, at 2917m (9568ft), being Greece's highest point. To the northwest lie the flat agricultural plains of Larisa that are the drained remnants of huge lakes. To the west lies the large port town of Volos and, beyond it, Volos airport. To the southwest is the Pagasitikos Gulf, sheltered by the Pilion and its curling tail. To the south is the large island of Evia (Euboea), while to the southeast are the much smaller, but better known, Sporades islands - Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonisos, Kyra Panagia and Yioura. To the northeast, across the Aegean Sea, the Halkidiki peninsula and the cone of Mt Athos are visible in certain weather conditions.

The low hills of the southern end of Pilion are typically Mediterranean in climate, but the northern half is mountainous, reaching 1624m (5327ft) at Pourianos Stavros; it catches the sea breezes and, like Mt Olymbos to the north, develops its own microclimate - hot in summer but cold and often damp in winter. The winter snows bring skiers from Athens to the ski centre at Hania, at 1200m (3936ft). The high winter rainfall has kept much of the woodland intact, with dense areas of sweet chestnut and, on the higher slopes, beech trees. Olive trees are, because of the severe winters, only found near sea-level.

In Greek myth the area was famed for the centaurs, half-men, half-horse, who lived on raw meat and wine - the Greek name, Kentavros, features locally. Later the area was a Greek educational stronghold during the years of Turkish occupation. Notables from Pilion include the national poet Rigas Feraios, an active supporter of Greek Independence, executed by the Turks in 1798, and familiar from the recent 200-drachma note. During the occupation, many locals moved to Egypt, then part of the Ottoman empire, and became involved in the cotton industry there. Nowadays, cotton can be seen growing in the plains of Volos and Larisa, including the fields around Volos airport.

The book also includes routes to or through Agia Saranda, Banikas, Fakistra, Hania, Horefto, Lambinou, Limnionas, Milies, Mylopotamos and Xourihti.

The walks are mostly moderate walks, although due to the landscape, the majority have ascents and descents. There is usually plenty of shade. There is a more challenging route into the mountainous interior. Large-scale sketch maps of the villages of Mouresi and Tsangarada, and the areas around Lambinou, Limnionas and Mylopotamos, are included within the text.

The 36-page book is A5 size, with a card cover. It is accompanied by an A3 double-sided colour walkers' map of the area, at a scale of 7.5cm:1km. Book and map are supplied in a tough A5 plastic sleeve.

Book first published 2001, updated 2004; map published 2001, reprinted 2010.

ISBN 978-1-900802-78-9

As recommended by Dana Facaros in the Sunday Times, 20 June 2004.

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Lance Chilton and Marengo 2012

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