Marengo

South Peloponnisos Botanical Tour April 2010

One of the richest botanical areas in the Balkans, the Peloponnisos (Peloponnese) forms the figleaf-shaped southern portion of mainland Greece. The Tour was based in Mystras near Sparti, for five days, with a 3-day extension based in coastal Kardamyli, further west

For photos of the flowers, see our Peloponnisos flowers page - or you can buy a plant check list for the Peloponnisos.

First day: Mystras to Taiyeti and Langada Gorge

In the morning we drove westwards up into the foothills above Mystras through the village of Taïgeti and then to the 17th century Zoödohou Piyis monastery, with some brief stops for the views out over the Sparti Evrotas plain and for a little botanizing, on the way up. From the monastery we walked up into the valley above, on a sometimes steepish footpat to Sela. From here we followed a winding dirt road back to the monastery and our picnic lunch. We returned by the same road to Mystras, and then onwards to our final stop, in Parori village, where we joined the path into the narrow Langada gorge, 500m to the Panagia Langadiotissa cave church, tucked away under a huge overhang of the cliff.

Cyclamen repandum in woodland below Taiyeti village; 12 April 2010

Panagia Langadiotissa cave church in Langada gorge, near Mystras; 12 April 2010

Panagia Langadiotissa cave church in Langada gorge, near Mystras; 12 April 2010

Second day: Mystras to Kryoneri

We drove southeast from Mystras across the plain to Paleopanagia village. Turning west and uphill on a smaller, sometimes confusing road, we drove into the foothills of the Taïyetos range, to the remote woodland above the hamlet of Krioneri. Our walk started at Manganiari. A dirt track wound up into the woodland, where we found a wide range of flowers including the hoped-for peonies, though unfortunately these were only in bud. We also found the first of several poisoned golden jackals we were to see during the week - this endangered species has lost much of its Peloponnisian forest habitat in the wildfires of the last few years, and continues to be persecuted. Bait of grain and chicken skins, laced with rat poison, kills jackals and - presumably unintentionally - local dogs.

Mt Profitis Ilias Taïyetos from Kryoneri; 13 April 2010

Poisoned jackal, Kryoneri; 13 April 2010

Hillside above Kryoneri; 13 April 2010

Third day: Mystras to Mt Parnonas

From Sparti we went eastwards, up to 1000m and the Parnonas mountain ridge with areas of fir woodland. Unfortunately, the first botanical site, near Agrianoi, had been burned since our last visit, so no longer had the tree cover; nevertheless, the meadows and open areas still had a rich flora. After a picnic lunch at a verdant, unburnt area near Arkoudorahi, we drove on past Tsitzina up to the watershed at 1500m, and a walk to the Agios Ioannis Malevo church and fire lookout.

Picnic site, Mt Parnonas; 14 April 2010

Picnic site, Mt Parnonas; 14 April 2010

Mt Parnonas; 14 April 2010

Church, Mystras; 14 April 2010

Fourth day: Mystras to Hionovouni

From Sparti, we crossed the River Evrotas and headed southeastwards along the valley side through Goritsa and Geraki. We turned uphill at Agios Dimitrios to a valley below Mt Hionovouni, a southeastern outlier of the long Mt Parnonas ridge. This long straight valley, with its low shrubby vegetation over a deep orange terra rossa soil, was home to early spring displays of cyclamen and tulips, and fields of orchids.

Orchis italica, below Mt Hionovouni; 15 April 2010

Fifth day: Mystras to Seliboves

Heading north from Mystras, we joined the main Taïyetos road at Trypi and then headed west in the direction of Kalamata, up through the huge and dramatic Langada Gorge. On reaching the watershed at Seliboves at 1375m, we turned south on a surfaced forest road to Agia Marina. Given the altitude, there were concerns about the possibility of snow and inclement weather conditions causing problems, however the unanticipated reality was of a hillside of gaunt, burned black pine trees. We walked to and beyond the damaged countryside to rocky meadows at Pende Alonia, and explored remains of an old settlement. The cheerful cafe at the Touristiko Taïyetou hotel provided refreshments before the drive back to Mystras.

Sixth day: Kardamyli to Platsa

Having moved across the Taïyetos ridge to the village of Kardamyli, we drove south to Agios Nikolaos and then walked to Pantazi Beach for our picnic lunch. Driving further south up the hill to Platsa village, we walked a circuit through olive groves and maquis, partly on magnificent, engineered stone paths - kalderimia - via Pigi village and back to Platsa.

Donkey, Pantazi Beach; 18 April 2010

Agios Nikolaos Selenitza; 18 April 2010

Frescoes in a Platsa church; 18 April 2010

Overgrown kalderimi below Platsa; 18 April 2010

Seventh day: Kardamyli to Agia Sofia, Exopolis and the Vyrou Gorge

Starting the morning, we walked through Kardamyli to the old citadel. Later we drove inland, eastwards, up to the once almost entirely abandoned hamlet of Agia Sofia, and then walked along the southern rim of the huge Vyrou Gorge for a picnic lunch in a small, sheltered olive grove. In the afternoon, we headed further inland and uphill to Exopolis in order to explore a further section of the gorge. However, hard, cool rain eventually drove us back down to the shelter of Kardamyli.

Spring below Agia Sofia; 19 April 2010

Group waiting for leader to lead them; 19 April 2010

Agia Sofia church; 19 April 2010

Sotiros Monastery, Vyrou Gorge; 19 April 2010

Vyrou Gorge; 19 April 2010

Vyrou Gorge; 19 April 2010

Lykakiou Monastery, Vyrou Gorge; 19 April 2010

Eighth day: Kardamyli to Saïdona and Kastania

Driving south, then inland to the hill village of Saïdona, we parked and then followed a mountain road as far as the hidden, abandoned monastery of Agios Samouil. Returning, to Saidona, we picnicked near the war memorial and then drove to Kastania village. A circuit around the back of the village provided a view of salamanders in a small stream and of the Byzantine church of Agios Petros. A kindly local found the key so that we were able to see the frescoes inside the ancient building.