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La Palma Adventure - Botanical Walks led by Lance Chilton - 10 March 2009

An exciting six days of fascinating plants and spectacular scenery, including all the best of the island’s botanical sites.

Jump to Itinerary Walks Information
The Resort General Information Package Holiday Possibilities

La Palma, shaped like an inverted teardrop, is the northwesternmost of the Canary Islands, and is an island of contrasts. Like the other islands it is entirely of volcanic origin, but it is less than 4 million years old – remarkably young in geological terms. In the centre of the broad northern half is the great crater of Taburiente, the original Caldera – now a national park, but ironically, no longer regarded as a true caldera at all but the remnants of an enormous, eroded, partly collapsed volcano. The high point of the island, Roque de los Muchachos on the northern rim, is still 2426m (7955ft) above sea level, making La Palma the world’s tallest island in relation to its surface area (728sq.km). Because of the clarity of the sky here, the summit is dotted with astronomical observatories. The exterior slopes of the crater are furrowed with deep ravines concealing dense laurel forest, between ridges covered with seemingly endless pine woodland, while the coastline is marked by tall cliffs dropping abruptly to the sea.

The southern half of the island is of even more recent origin, a raised spine formed by a chain of volcanos and covered in places by lava flows from seven eruptions in the last 550 years. It is still expanding southwards at the southern tip, with the volcanic cone of Teneguía appearing in 1971. Much of the coastal platform created by recent lava has been converted to banana cultivation, but the hillsides above provide fascinating opportunities to see how the native flora colonizes these recently formed areas.

The island was conquered by the Spanish in 1493 from the indigenous Benahoaritas, and became a major trading port between Europe and the Americas. The main town is Santa Cruz de la Palma, on the northeast coast, packed with historical architecture and attractive, wooden-balconied houses, and one of Spain’s three main ports in the 16th century. Nowadays, it is a lively, cultural centre with attractive shops, restaurants, cafés and tapas bars.

The flora of the island is varied and unique, because of the range of habitats from subtropical to extreme montane. There are some 870 native species recorded, of which 41 are endemic to the island. Many of the island endemics or Canary endemics are shrubby representatives of genera more familiar in Europe as herbaceous perennials or annuals. Habitats include semi-desert in the south, lava flows of varying ages and stages of recolonization, open scrub, laurel forest, pine woodland in the higher altitude areas, and subalpine conditions at the top. Of particular interest are the Canarian dragon trees, with a number of colonies of these ancient and dramatically fractal trees scattered around the island. See our La Palma flowers pages.

don't believe anyone who says there are only a few pairs of choughs on La Palma...Wildlife may include choughs (left), La Palma blue tits, La Palma chaffinches, laurel pigeons, Berthelot's pipits, La Palma lizards, Canary speckled woods, La Palma cleopatras, Tilos graylings and monarch butterflies

The climate is relatively equitable, with average temperatures varying from 15-19°C in January to 21-25°C in August. Precipitation is very variable but averages between 20-40cm per year – considerably more at high altitude and in the north, considerably less in the south. The mountains have occasional winter snow, though this rarely lasts long; overnight frosts are however more frequent on the summit.

diagram of La Palma


The walks fee is £160 per person, and includes a personalized copy of the La Palma plant checklist. There will also be a compulsory local transport cost. Depending on numbers, we will use taxis and/or a coach. Please budget for around 120€ per person.

ITINERARY 10-15 March 2009

 The walk descriptions below include distances, altitudes and timings that are approximate, and the walks are subject to change. The meeting place will be outside the Hotel Taburiente Playa in Los Cancajos – located approximately equidistant from the two other two holiday accommodations available, both around 5 minutes’ walk away. Please bring a picnic lunch with you each day.

Tuesday 10 March Dragon Snaps Meet 10:00 at Taburiente Playa

dragon trees near ZumacalWe walk southwards along the coastal path, to look at the rich flora of the coastal rocks and slopes immediately south of the resort, with stunning views out over the sea to the east. Heading inland to the west, then north, we make our way through banana plantations to the village of San Antonio (with a possible cafe refreshments stop). From here we reach the neighbouring settlement of Zumacal (140m) and its impressive colony of dragon trees. Here there will be time to try and produce the perfect dragon tree photo – no easy thing to do - and our picnic lunch. Returning from here by a different route to Los Cancajos.

Flowers we may see include Aeonium holochrysum, Argyranthemum frutescens, Artemisia thuscula, Astydamia latifolia, Euphorbia balsamifera, Euphorbia canariensis, Euphorbia lamarckii, Kleinia neriifolia, Lavandula canariensis subsp. palmensis, Periploca laevigata and Rumex lunaria.

Wednesday 11 March Lonesome Pine Meet 09:00 at Taburiente Playa

the Virgen del Pino churchTransport (20km) west through the first Cumbre Tunnel to the Visitors’ Centre (843m) at El Paso. There is an excellent botanical garden here, with a number of the rarest of the island’s endemic plants; as well as informative displays inside on the geological history of the island. From here we head east to an area of lava flow (887m) from the Montana Quemada in the years 1470-92, before heading north between fields of the cultivated white broom, escobon, to the isolated church of the Virgen del Pino (906m) with its impressively large Canarian pine tree, for our picnic lunch. Returning by a different route to the west and south we return to the Visitors’ Centre and our transport home via the second Cumbre Tunnel.

Flowers we may see include Carlina falcata, Chamaecytisus proliferus, Lotus hillebrandii and Pinus canariensis, plus Cheirolophus teydis, Dorycnium eriophthalmum, Helianthemum cirae, Helianthemum linii, Olea europaea subsp. guanchica, and Sonchus palmensis at the Visitors’ Centre.

Thursday 12 March Top of the World Meet 09:00 at Taburiente Playa

Transport (45km) north through Santa Cruz and then northwest up the long mountain road through pine forest to the Roque de los Muchachos at the 2426m (8055ft) summit of the island, dotted with astronomical observatories and overlooking the vast crater with its 1km high cliffs. There is a short walk along the stony path from the car park towards the main crater viewpoint (0.5km), passing a small but very specialized, high altitude flora. Returning to the transport, we descend on the western side of the mountain, then head north to the church of San Antonio (915m) for our picnic lunch and a short (3km) but dramatic gorge walk to La Zarza (970m). Transport on around the north side of the island, and back to Los Cancajos.

Flowers we may see include Arbutus canariensis, Bencomia caudata, Bethencourtia palmensis, Cystopteris diaphana, Dichroanthus scoparius, Diplazium caudatum, Dryopteris oligodonta, Echium gentianoides, Echium wildpretii, Pericallis appendiculata, Rhamnus glandulosa, Silene pogonocalyx, Spartocytisus supranubius, and Visnea mocanero.

Friday 13 March Hardy Laurels Meet 09:00 at Taburiente Playa

view of the the Galga valley from San BartoloTransport (23km) north through Santa Cruz and then along the northeast coast to La Galga (340m), where we enter a deep valley in some of the island’s densest laurel forest. Following an initially surfaced road we explore the rich flora to the end of the track at an abandoned quarry, the Cubo de la Galga (575m), before returning a short way and then following a woodland path up the valley side to the Somada Alta mirador for panoramic views and our picnic lunch. Descent is via a winding earth road through more forest and woodland to the hamlet of Lomo Piñero (585m), and then via the hamlet’s old access lane to the main road. A little further eastwards is the small viewpoint church of San Bartolo (390m), and a refreshments stop if the next door bar is open. Transport back to Los Cancajos.

Flowers we may see include Adiantum reniforme, Aeonium palmense, Aichryson pachycaulon, Apollonias barbusano, Canarina canariensis, Convolvulus canariensis, Crambe santosii, Gesnouinia arborea, Laurus novocanariensis, Ocotea foetans, Persea indica, Phyllis nobla, Semele androgyna and Woodwardia radicans.

Saturday 14 March Mazo Meet 09:00 at Taburiente Playa

Casa Roja in MazoTransport (6km) inland to Breña Baja (aka San José) from where we follow paths uphill to the volcanic cone of Montaña Breña (565m) and our picnic lunch on the summit, with panoramic views out over the east coast. We then follow the hillside along to attractive Mazo village and a chance to visit the remarkable Casa Roja, (“Red House”) – a restored mansion-museum (small entrance fee). We will also call into the flourishing Saturday market, where you may be able to sample a glass of freshly squeezed sugarcane juice. Transport back to Los Cancajos.

Flowers we may see include Argemone mexicana, Ceballosia fruticosa, Dracunculus canariensis, Echium webbii, Gonospermum canariense, Laphangium luteoalbum, Sonchus palmensis, Spartocytisus filipes and Wahlenbergia lobelioides.

Sunday 15 March End of the World Meet 09:00 at Taburiente Playa

Teneguia volcano Transport (25km) along the southeastern side of the island with a possible brief stop at some damp 1646 lava flow near Montes de Luna for possible orchids, and then on to Los Canarios (more popularly known by its older name of Fuencaliente) the island’s southernmost town (630m). Passing the crater of the 657m San Antonio volcano (active 1677, 1949), we walk downhill to the very ancient Roque de Teneguía which pokes up through a sea of recent lava flow. After the roque, we skirt the crater of 439m Teneguía which appeared in a October 1971 eruption and is still smouldering. Picnic stop en route. The walk provides an opportunity to see various stages in the process of recolonization by the local flora in this low rainfall area. From Teneguía, we continue downhill to the coast at Faro de Fuencaliente for a visit to the restored salt pans, old and new lighthouses, more coastal flora, and then our transport home.

Flowers we may see include Aeonium davidbramwellii, Ceropegia hians, Ceterach aureum, Cheirolophus junonianus, Echium brevirame, Habenaria tridactylites, Phagnalon umbelliforme, Rhamnus crenulata, Rhus coriaria, Schizogyne sericea, Scilla latifolia, Sonchus hierrensis and Umbilicus heylandianus.


17 MARCH 2009 Subject to demand, the week may be repeated on 17 March 2009. Please let us know if you are interested.

WALKS INFORMATION

 The walks are on dirt tracks, paths, paved paths and occasionally on short stretches of surfaced road. Where footpaths are used, these can be fairly stony in places and may be a little slippery in the laurel forest or where there are pine needles. Because of the nature of the landscape, on all the walks there are hill ascents and descents. Trekking poles are highly recommended. You may find binoculars and a hand lens add to your enjoyment.

The order of the walks may be affected by the weather.

Please do not hurry on the paths, or go far ahead. It is your responsibility to keep Lance in your sight when we are walking. We will stop frequently as a group, to look at views, plants, other wildlife, to rest, etc., so you should not need to stop on your own and become separated from the group.

Please bring a picnic lunch along with you for all the walks. On some of the walks there may be café stops, but we cannot guarantee that these facilities will be functioning on the day. Please note that all your meals/picnics/refreshments while with the group are paid for by yourself.

Clothing and Equipment. March is a good time for the flora and for pleasant weather, but rain is possible and could be heavy at times. You should definitely bring extra warm and windproof clothing for the daytrip to the summit, when there could be frost/snow on the ground. You will also need sunhat, suncream, water, personal first aid etc.

THE RESORT

 Los Cancajos, the main resort, is in the centre of the east coast, and a short bus ride away from Santa Cruz. It has a couple of clean, black sand beaches, suitable for swimming, a spectacular black rock coastline, and views in clear weather across to Tenerife. The resort is mainly purpose-built, but pleasantly laid-out, attractively planted, and with interesting native plants immediately around it. There are a number of restaurants near the beach, plus a couple of supermarkets. The waters are recommended for diving and snorkelling, with a good variety of marine life. Flights are to Santa Cruz de la Palma airport (SPC), just a 10-15 minute transfer away.

Holiday Queries. If you are on a package holiday, please note that any queries in resort regarding your accommodation or airport transfer should be addressed to the holiday company representative, and not to Lance.

Suggestions for further days out. The main town of Santa Cruz has plenty of interest. The island’s second town, Los Llanos de Aridane is easily accessible by bus from Santa Cruz, and from Los Llanos you can walk into the lower part of the crater in the Barranco de las Angustias. The Cumbrecita viewpoint, 8km from the Visitors’ Centre offers an alternative view into the crater. The Los Tilos valley, north of La Galga, offers more – though slightly less accessible – laurel forest, plus an information centre and café. More challenging walks include the Ruta de los Volcanes – guided excursions are available locally.

GENERAL INFORMATION

 The official La Palma tourist office website is www.lapalmaturismo.com.

Language. Spanish is the official language, with a few words that are more specific to the Canary Islands.

A barranco is a steep sided valley.

An ermita is a small, usually isolated, church or chapel.

A guagua is a bus

A roque is a pointed outcrop of acidic rock, formed by the lava cooling inside a volcanic chimney, and exposed through erosion of material outside the chimney.


SUGGESTIONS FOR YOUR LA PALMA HOLIDAY

Package Holiday Possibilities

The walk date is based on Sunday flights. Thomson (0870 165 0079) and Portland (both part of Tui) are, we believe, the only UK holiday companies offering packages to Los Cancajos, with flights from Gatwick and Manchester. Prices online, with Thomson (unless otherwise stated), in March 2008.

Las Olas apartments – self-catering but including HB - 3* - £380 (£549 for two weeks)

Hotel H10 Taburiente Playa – HB - 4* - £408 (£603 for two weeks); Portland £365 for one week.

Hacienda San Jorge – self-catering - 4* - £405 (£576 for two weeks)

Manchester departures cost around £10 more. Singles only available at the Taburiente Playa, from £449 (Portland) for one week.

All three are good accommodations (Lance has stayed in the first two, and has looked around the San Jorge). Walks will start from outside the Hotel Taburiente Playa. Book early, there are not many places on these packages.

www.tripadvisor.co.uk have reviews of these properties.

Do-It-Yourself Holiday Possibilities

Flight Onlies are now available, also from Thomson, from £210 per person.

Flights are available through Iberia (via Madrid) from around £150.

See our Los Cancajos page for a full list of accommodation.


Further Links

Mazo village (in Spanish only)

Santa Cruz (in Spanish only)

El Paso (in Spanish only)

Brena Baja (in Spanish only)

Visitors' Centre (in Spanish only)

Fuencaliente (in Spanish only)

ACANTUR Rural Tourism and ATRIB Rural Tourism

Canary Island astronomical observatories

Isaac Newton Group observatories

bird information on La Palma


Further Information


Lance Chilton and Marengo 2008

Marengo, 17 Bernard Crescent, HUNSTANTON PE36 6ER, England
e-mail us: here

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