Guided Walks in Arillas, Corfu, Greece, September 2008
A chance to experience autumn in northwest Corfu, in the relaxed resort of Arillas.
Northwest Corfu; October 2004
Corfu, Kerkyra in Greek, is the most northerly and second largest of the seven Ionian islands - Corfu, Ithaki, Kefallinia, Kythira, Lefkada, Paxi and Zakynthos. Geologically these are the old limestone summits of former mountains. Corfu is Greece's most westerly large island, and is 65 km long by 29 km at its widest, with an area of approximately 600 km2. (Five reference works consulted while researching this gave areas of 502, 585, 593, 637 and 1,060 km2!). Situated in the northwest corner of Greece, Corfu faces Italy some 80 km to the west, with Albania and the Greek province of Ipiros to the east.
Historically, Corfu has been a part of various empires, although it was the one part of Greece never ruled by the Ottoman Turks. The British took it from Napoleon in 1815 and passed it on to the fledgling Greek state in 1864. It was arguably featured in Homer's Odyssey and Shakespeare's the Tempest, and was definitely the location for Lawrence Durrell's Prospero's Cell and brother Gerald's My Family and other Animals. Prince Philip was born in a small house on the island, but locally its most famous inhabitant is St. Spyridon, a Cypriot monk and bishop whose body was only brought to Corfu eleven hundred years after his death, and in whose honour many boys are named Spyros.
Corfu often has heavy rainstorms in summer - unlike most of the Greek islands, the summer drought is not so sustained. The annual rainfall varies considerably, but averages 130 cm, more than three times that of south Aegean areas such as Crete, and the humidity is consequently higher. Sixty percent of this rain falls between November and April. The temperature in winter in coastal areas rarely drops much below freezing, averaging around 5-10 C in January, but snow does fall at sea-level every few years.
The recent development of tourism has affected the island considerably, particularly along the southeast coast, some of which has been completely abandoned to lager sales. However the west and northwest of the island have retained much of their Greek character, have the best scenery, and are still very much the Corfu familiar to readers of Gerald Durrell.
Arillas (Arilas). The westernmost corner of northern Corfu is formed by the shale cliffs of Akrotiri Stefanos. To the north is the village of Agios Stefanos, while to the south is the scattered resort of Arillas, with its long, narrow sandy beach. To the south of Arillas is a headland called Akrotiri Arillas, with the village of Afionas perched on the top. Further south still is the bay of Agios Georgios Pagon. Out to sea, a series of islands, the Diapontia (Diaplos, Mathraki, Othoni and Erikousa), fades into the haze northwestwards towards Italy.
Inland from Arillas, the hills gradually rise to a ridge which forms the watershed between the two sides of this corner of the island. The view to the west extends across a wide basin full of grey-green olive trees and pointed cypresses, with the bare-topped mass of Mount Pandokrator, the island's highest peak (906m/2974ft), in the distance to the east. Across the Kerkyras channel, the mountains of Albania can be seen on clear days, the highest over 2100m.
The Walks
Tuesday 23 September - Coastline Panoramas - Approx. 5.5miles
* 10am start. Heading inland from the jetty, we will follow the river valley and then swing inland and up to the northeastern ridge. From the Analypsi church, we will head down through the olive groves and past the outskirts of Agios Stefanos to the beach and old harbour for our picnic lunch. In the afternoon we will make our way up over the Arillas headland for some fine views out to the islands and to Albania, before returning back to resort about 16.30.
Wednesday 24 September - Villages and Vistas - Approx. 8miles
* 9am start. Transport southeast to Pagi village, from where we walk up to nearby Prinylas and then on through woodland to a wonderful panoramic viewpoint above with views over much of the northwest of the island. Descending into the verdant Helidoni bowl, we pass through Vistonas and Makrades villages to a cafe stop in Krini. From Krini we follow a cliffside path down to the olive groves and then back to Agios Georgios for transport home. Returning about 17.00.
Thursday 25 September - Old Bikes and Beaches - Approx. 7miles
For those who like a day-off during their week, this is it. For those who like an activity every day, meet as usual at 09.30.
* 9am start. Heading southeast from Arillas and then uphill with a short detour via the Arillas Heritage trail we cross the intervening ridge and descend towards the huge sweep of Agios Georgios bay. Picnic lunch near the sandy beach (or have a taverna lunch if you prefer) and the possibility of a swim, before our return by a different route. Returning about 16.30.
Friday 26 September - Dionysos Doubles - Approx. 6miles
* 9am start. Following the coast south from Arillas, we climb to the headland at the southern end of the bay and the small village of Afionas and a refreshment stop at the Dionysos cafe with wonderful views over both Arillas and Agios Georgios bays. The onward path descends towards the tip of the peninsula and the pretty double bays of Porto Timoni for a beach picnic and the possibility of a swim. There is an optional short onward climb to the church-cave of Agios Stylianos, before our return to Afionas via the Iliovasilema (Sunset) viewpoint and then back to Arillas. Returning about 16.30.
Saturday 27 September - Sidari Jaunt - Approx. 7miles
* 9am start. From Arillas we head inland along the hillside below the Analypsi church, from where a series of dirt tracks take us through to Magoulades village and the ridge top route past several churches to the Ypsilis Theotokou monastery and our picnic lunch. From here we continue by dirt track and road into the north coast resort of Sidari with time to look around, or possibly have a swim, before our transport home. Returning about 16.30.
Sunday 28 September - Angels' Air - Approx. 7miles
* 9am start. Transport southeast to Vistonas and then by footpath to Lakones overlooking the beautiful bays of Paleokastritsa, to which we descend by a combination of dirt track and path. Picnic lunch at one of the beaches (or taverna lunch if you prefer) and the possibility of a swim. Return ascent via an old kalderimi path to Lakones and a refreshment stop before heading on to Krini village and then to the remarkable Angels' Castle. Transport home from Makrades. Returning about 17.00.
We recommend footwear that has some cushioning, grips well, and is comfortable, as well as a pair of trekking poles. Walks are
on dirt tracks, paths, and - at times - on surfaced roads. Please contact Lance to discuss which walks week(s) will be right
for you.
There will be six walk days in the week, starting on 23 September 2008.
The order of walks, indeed the walks themselves are subject to change where we can improve them, or the weather or other
local forces dictate it.
The walks will start at 9am (except 10am on the first day), at the pier/jetty at the coastal T-junction in Arillas, near the large Marina hotel. Walk distances and timings below are very approximate and are just to give you a general idea.
The walks fee is £120 per person per week, and includes 6 days of walks.
In addition, there will be a compulsory local transport cost, of no more than 75 Euros per person, payable to Lance on the first morning. This is for your share of the transport we have booked on your behalf for the short outward and inward transfers on several of the walk days. Please note that since the transport is booked in advance, this is payable even if you were to opt out of the particular walk(s) involving transport.
There should be a variety of autumn flowers, which may include: Arbutus unedo (strawberry tree), Allium chamaespathum (autumn onion), Biarum tenuifolium, Campanula versicolor, Charybdis maritima (sea squill), Clematis flammula, Colchicum lingulatum (autumn crocus), Convolvulus betonicifolius, Cyclamen hederifolium, Delphinium peregrinum (autumn larkspur), Echinophora spinosa, Euphorbia peplis (purple spurge), Lathyrus latifolius, Pancratium maritimum (sea daffodil), Prospero autumnale (autumn squill), Putoria calabrica, Smilax aspera, and Sternbergia lutea (yellow autumn crocus).
Booking Your Holiday
Holiday company packages are available from the following (in alphabetical order)
The prices and information given below is per person for a 1-week holiday on 22 Sept 08 from LGW on a Monday day flight. The regional UK airports mentioned are also day flights, and all information is as seen online on 24-26 Sept 07. Changes will certainly occur (e.g. since we first looked in August, Libra have dropped all Arillas holidays!).
The walks will start from the centre of the seafront, by the pier/jetty, near the Marina Hotel. Please check with us if you are not certain how conveniently located a particular accommodation will be.
If you wish to go for two weeks, other airports and night flights (often cheaper) maybe available. 10/11-night holidays may also be available.
Singles are only available at three properties, and there may only be one room at each, so BOOK EARLY! They are Olympic £301.78, Corfu Escape £368, and Manos' Dionysos 1 £324.10. All are self-catering.
Corfu Escape - www.corfuescape.com - tel 020 8207 7356.
Corfu Escape have studios (ex-Thomson's Small & Friendly) and two hotels, from £319, LGW plus BHX, MAN. They promise a maximum transfer time of 90mins.
Manos - tel 0871 6647983.
Manos/My Travel have a choice of twelve properties, e.g. B+B from £351, studios £315, 2-bed apts £323. They have flights from BHX, BRS, EMA, MAN, NEW as well as LGW, require a £150 deposit and include a 20kg baggage allowance and inflight meals. Book a return taxi transfer for your party for £109.
Olympic - tel 0800 0933322.
Olympic have the Christos Apartments (type code 13255 in advanced search) with studios/apartments for 1-5 people, from £279. £75 deposit. Flights from BHX, BRS, EMA, MAN, NEW as well as LGW. Taxi transfers £126 extra. NB they have a charge for card payments.
Thomson - www.thomson.co.uk - tel 0870 1650079
Thomson, since they fly only on Tuesdays and Fridays, is only possible as 2-week holiday. They have one accommodation, the Kaloudis studios, e.g. Friday 19 Sept 08 £319 from Luton.
Thomas Cook (Sunset) - www.thomascook.com - tel 0870 7505711.
Thomas Cook have a B+B hotel from £243; 15kg baggage allowance (+£15 for 20kg); optional inflight meals; flights BHX, EMA, MAN, STN as well as LGW; only £50 deposit; the newly-built Mirage studios are from £279 and Sunset have a B+B hotel from £257.
Please check with us
if you are in doubt about the location of any accommodations.
Please note that inclusion of holiday company details does not necessarily represent their endorsement by Marengo. Please also note the package holiday companies mentioned only supply flights, transfers and accommodation. The walks themselves are organized solely by Marengo.
You cannot arrange the walks through the package holiday companies.
DIY.
There are many charter flight-onlys available, easyJet flights are now on sale, and accommodation can be booked direct online. Arillas is about 30-35km from the airport and our best guesstimate of a taxi price is 50 Euros one way. Carhire available if prebooked online for approximately 400 Euros for 2 weeks.
Further Info
www.holidays-uncovered.co.uk and www.tripadvisor.co.uk have reviews of these properties.
www.arillas.com has general information and some accommodation details.
http://arillasmap.awardspace.com/ marks the position of most accommodations.
www.airflights.co.uk and www.flightline.co.uk have flight onlys.
www.holidayautos.co.uk have car-hire.
Suggested Reading
"Walks in Northwest Corfu" (£7.75) with colour map, "Plant List for Corfu" (£5.75) - special offer for walkers joining the group, if purchased from us at same time as paying for the walks, each book only £5.00.
Lance Chilton and Marengo 2008
Marengo, 17 Bernard
Crescent, HUNSTANTON PE36 6ER, England
e-mail us: here
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